Tag Archives: 1910s Fashion

Autumn Colours

23 Sep

1900. Dress by Worth worn by Queen Alexandrine of Denmark

1900. Evening Dress, House of Worth1900-05. Evening Dress, Gustave Beer

1903. peach ballgown 1

1909. green evening dress

1910. A Maison Worth Cobalt Blue Silk Velvet and Gold Lace Gown, cobalt blue underdress with a peach velvet inset to the V-neckline, gold lace and net overlay, with a velvet cummerbund and silk flower embellishment at the bust

1910. black dress with golden leaves embroidery

1910. evening dress, house of worth

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1911. Evening dress by Jeanne Hallee, peacock -simbol besmrtnosti,bogatstva i egzotičnosti

1911. Silk And Metallic Lace Belle Epoch Gown, winter, New York

1912, edwardian dress, detaisl

1912. Evening dress by House of Worth

1912. tunic dress

1913. Evening dress and matching shoes by Jeanne Hallée 2

1913. Evening dress of Queen Maud of Norway

4x5 original

1916. Cape, Evening Hickson1918. Negligée, detail, Silk

1915. Gold Lace Evening dress 3

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Dressing a Titanic Lady

22 Apr

April always reminds me of Titanic era fashion. I don’t know why, it just happens every year; as soon as spring comes my thoughts turn to 1910s decadence in society and fashion. Titanic era is a fashion era of many prominent Parisian fashion designers such as Paul Poiret, Callot Sisters, Doucet, Jeanne Paquin, Doeuillet, Jeanne Hallee and many others. Here are some of my favourite dresses from Titanic era (1910-1912.)

1911. Callot Soeurs Dress

1911. black evening dress by Callot Soeurs 11911. Evening dress by Callot Soeurs

 

1911. Evening dress by Weeks, peacock -simbol besmrtnosti,bogatstva i egzotičnosti

61.65.3_threequarter_back 00041910. French evening dress

 

1911. Oriental yet elegant Evening dress, France 1

1911. Oriental yet elegant Evening dress, France 21911. Evening dress, France

 

1912. Afternoon Dress by House of Doeuillet, Paris 1

1912. Afternoon Dress by House of Doeuillet, Paris 21912. Afternoon Dress by House of Doeuillet

 

1912. evening dres, pink 2

1912. evening dres, pink 1

1912. evening dres, pink 31912. Evening dress, France

 

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62.15.2_threequarter_back 00011912. Evening gown by Callot Soeurs

 

1912. G&E Spitzer, evening dress1910-12. Evening dress, G&E Spitzer

 

1912. Evening Gown, Liberty Company Ltd., London and Paris1912. Evening Gown, Liberty Company Ltd., London and Paris

 

1912. pink and lace dinner dress

1912. pink and lace dinner dress 11912. Dinner dress, France

 

1913. Evening dress and matching shoes by Jeanne Hallée 3

1913. Evening dress and matching shoes by Jeanne Hallée1912. Evening dress by Jeanne Hallee

 

1911. Evening dress by Paul Poiret1911. Evening dress by Paul Poiret

 

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Picture 0211912. Evening dress by Callot Soeurs

 

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58.125.4_back 00021912. Tea dress

 

1910. purple Evening dress by House of Worth

1910. purple Evening dress by House of Worth 2

1910. purple Evening dress by House of Worth 1

1910. purple Evening dress by House of Worth 41910. Evening dress by House of Worth

 

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1910-12. Evening dress.

 

1911. silk evening dress, Worth 3

1911. silk evening dress, Worth 21911. Evening dress by Worth.

Paul Poiret or Exotic ‘Parisian’ Nights

14 Apr

‘…a couturier who employed the language of orientalism to develop the romantic and theatrical possibilities of clothing.’

One of my favourite fashion designers – Paul Poiret, was born on the 20. April 1879. in Paris. His innovative designs changed fashion landscape of the early 20. century. He was cunning, cheeky and radical.

1910s poiret

He first worked as an umbrella maker – a job his parents forced him to do in an attempt to deprive him from his natural pride. There he collected scraps of silk left over and created dresses for a doll his sister had given him. His career started when he showed Madame Cheruit, a prominent Parisian fashion designer, his designs. She liked his work and bought the designs.

poiret4poiret5

He continued to sell his designs until he was hired by Jacques Doucet in 1896. Poiret designed a red cloth cape for the House of Doucet which sold 400 copies. He later worked for the House of Worth, but his experimental and provocative designs found no place in this Victorian fashion house. Even the customers were shocked when he presented them his designs.

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Ahead of his time, he opened his own fashion house in 1903. with the help of Rejane, famous actress of the time. His first noticeable design was a kimono-coat. Poiret, a Picasso of the fashion world had a dramatic flair for exotic and opulent designs. His vivid greens, royal blues and brilliant reds soon replaced the soft, pastel colour palette so favoured by Edwardian ladies and Callot sisters, a rival fashion designers. In four years, Poiret had Paris at his feet.

1908. Paul Poiret 1

Far away and exotic countries such as Japan and Turkey served as his main inspiration and he soon presented his clientele with harem pants, turbans, hobble skirts and kimono-like jackets. As living pieces of art, his dresses were composed of rich materials, intriguing details, abundance of beads, a hint of crispy velvet and coated in exotic flair. He liberated women from their tight corsets – a legacy of Victorian times, but captivated them in hobble skirts preventing them from taking big steps. However, corset was far more popular than hobble skirt ever was.

1908. Paul Poiret 2

Poiret had an amazing sense for marketing and he attracted, not only his clients, but all of Paris by designing flamboyant window displays that caught every bodies attention. His grand soirees, luxurious  parties and costume balls became well known. For one of his costume balls, held on 24. June 1911. ‘The Thousand and Second Night’ (based on The Arabian Nights) he ordered his 300 guests to dress in Oriental clothing. Guests who disregarded his instruction were asked to either leave or to dress in one of his Persian costumes.

He was the first fashion designer ever to launch a fragrant connected to the fashion house named ‘Parfums de Rosine’ after his daughter. Inovative and ahead of his time, he started fashion photography in 1911. when Edward Steichen took photographs of models dressed in Poiret’s dresses.

1911. Paul Poiret, Opera Coat1919. evening dress, Paul Poiret1911. Evening dress by Paul Poiret62.129_threequarter_front 0003

Besides exotic world, Poiret had a living inspiration – his wife Denise. Denise, slender and youthful provincial girl, was Poiret’s muse and a prototype of la garconne (flapper girl). They met in 1905. and had five children together, including two daughters who became inspirations for his perfumes. Poiret said of his wife ”My wife is the inspiration for all my creations; she is the expression of all my ideals.”

1911. Fancy dress costume by Paul Poiret 1

After The First World War many fashion houses reopened but client’s tastes have changed. Fashion designers like Coco Chanel presented simple, sleek clothes that were cheap and practical. Poiret’s Arabian Nights exotic avant-garde designs found no refuge in post-war society. His theatrical, opulent, piece-of-art dresses were long forgotten.

New society, new fashion had no place for Poiret. In 1944, when he died, his glorious days, separated by two wars, had been forgotten. His friend and a fashion designer, Elsa Schiaparelli helped to prevent his name from falling into oblivion. She was the one to pay for his burial.